My first impression of India was shaped by The Beatles’ famous stay in Rishikesh, where they spent months studying Transcendental Meditation with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. That visit not only influenced their music but also brought Indian culture into the American mainstream. As a teenager, India, to me, symbolized peace, love, tranquility, exotic instruments, Nehru jackets, vibrant colors, joyful people, spicy food, and sacred cows. Transcendental Meditation (TM) classes flourished, and many sought enlightenment by traveling to India. Ravi Shankar’s performances at the Monterey Pop Festival in 1967 and Woodstock in 1969 elevated Indian music in the West, adding to the mystique. (Photo by Trisha Raghuram, as uploaded to Wikimedia Commons under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.)
Over the years, my connection to India grew through personal encounters—meeting people from India, reading novels set in the country, learning to cook Indian dishes, attending Buddhist ceremonies, and attending Indian music concerts. My understanding of modern India was shaped by these experiences, along with the harsher realities presented in the news: stories of brutal violence against women, industrial disasters, and environmental crises. So, when I finally decided to visit, I expected a land of contrasts. Traveling with a luxury tour group, I knew I’d be insulated from some of the country’s harsher realities—supplied with bottled water and healthy food. Yet, over three weeks through India and Nepal, I experienced more than I anticipated.
India today is not the serene, colorful land of enlightenment I had once imagined. The India of 1968, which The Beatles encountered, has transformed dramatically. Now the most populous country in the world, with 1.428 billion people, India’s rapid industrialization has come at a steep cost to its environment. Cities like New Delhi suffer from severe air and water pollution, with an average Air Quality Index (AQI) of 180-200, categorized as “Unhealthy.” In the winter, AQI levels can spike to hazardous levels of 300-500. Even in the summer, the air often hovers in the “Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups” range of 100-150. (Image: AQI for New Delhi on a day in October, 2024.)
During my visit, the pollution affected me physically. I had sinus headaches, my eyes were irritated, and distant views were often obscured by a thick haze. It felt as though my vision was perpetually clouded. While the pollution was most severe in the cities, even the countryside bore signs of it—long drives and train rides revealed landscapes coated in dust, with a thin layer of dirt covering everything. I found myself wondering how the plants could even breathe.
And yet, amid the environmental degradation, India’s past grandeur shines through in its temples, palaces, forts, and the Taj Mahal. These masterpieces are a testament to the country’s rich history and exquisite craftsmanship. The Taj Mahal, with its 500-meter pollution protection zone, stands as a symbol of enduring beauty, but even it is not immune to the surrounding haze. Early morning visits offer a clearer view, but as the day progresses, the sky grows cloudier, a stark reminder of the pollution that now envelops even this iconic landmark. (Image: AQI for Taj Mahal area on a day in October, 2024.)
Despite the awe these historical sites inspire, I struggled to find the sense of peace and love I had once associated with India. The environmental damage felt like a sign of life out of balance. In the crowded streets, I encountered pushy behavior, with people cutting queues and pushing ahead with little regard for others. It wasn’t until I visited Kopan Monastery in Nepal that I found a sense of peace. Perched high on a hill, the air was cleaner, and the grounds were meticulously cared for. Unlike the trash and plastic bottles littering many streets in both India and Nepal, the monastery was pristine. The gardens were beautifully arranged, and the monks had even placed perfect, artificial trees that blended seamlessly with the surroundings—true works of art. (Image: Senior monk at Kopan Monastery poses with one of the resident dogs.)
During our visit, a senior monk spoke to us about freeing ourselves from anger, attachment, and ignorance. He led us in a short meditation, and as I reflected on the experience, I thought about the many people who still travel to India in search of enlightenment. But enlightenment, I realized, isn’t tied to a place. It’s something found within, and for me, it’s perhaps best sought at home—where the air is clean and the environment allows the mind to breathe freely. (Image: Entrance to the temple at Kopan Monastery.)
(Image: Stupa at Kopan Monastery. )
(Image: An artificial tree on the monastery grounds.)
(Image: Statue detail.)
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