After four days of intense activity, we’ve begun our four-day journey to Tristan da Cunha. The swell is noticeable, but not too bad—I can still walk upright, and nothing has fallen off the shelves. We are surrounded by sea, and it’s a good moment to appreciate that most of the Earth is water.
“We should have called it Planet Ocean, not Planet Earth.” — Sylvia Earle, Oceanographer
Grey Water
Ships aren’t allowed to dump grey water—such as sink and shower runoff—within 12 nautical miles of South Georgia. It makes sense, given how fragile the ecosystem is here. Our expedition ship follows strict biosecurity and waste protocols to help protect these waters for the seals, penguins, and seabirds that depend on them.
When you look at our route on Cruisemapper, you’ll notice the ship veers quite far from shore at a few points. I heard that one of these detours may have been to dispose of grey water, in accordance with the rules.
Where in the World
Cruisemapper is my favorite website for tracking ships—I enjoy checking where Silver Wind is at any point in our journey. The first map below shows that we’re relatively alone in this part of the world. The second map reveals global ship traffic: Europe is packed. Now that the Antarctic summer is over, most cruise ships (like ours) are repositioning to warmer climates. The few remaining ships near Antarctica are mostly icebreakers, marked by gray icons.
Managing Risk
I was surprised to learn that all visitors to the British Overseas Territory—including Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible Island, and Gough Island—must sign an indemnity declaration. There is no hospital or airport. If a serious injury occurs, evacuation could take days or even weeks. The declaration makes clear that the government cannot guarantee timely or sufficient medical care—and visitors agree not to hold them liable for delays or outcomes.
Potential lawsuits may also be a concern. With a population of only around 250 people, Tristan da Cunha’s government is small and its budget modest. A single legal claim could create serious financial or administrative strain. The indemnity clause helps protect the community from risks it isn’t equipped to manage.
Fortunately, Silver Wind has a small infirmary and an on-board physician. While no major procedures can be done at sea, our doctor can handle minor issues like twisted ankles or cuts. No one plans to get hurt—but seeing an island named Inaccessible does make you wonder how it got that name.
Inaccessible Island
In 1656, Dutch sailors gave the island its name after they failed to land due to steep cliffs and rough seas. Others have since managed to land, but only under perfect weather conditions. Birds, of course, have no such trouble—making Inaccessible and neighboring Gough Island a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inaccessible Island is home to the Inaccessible Island rail (Atlantisia rogersi), the world’s smallest flightless bird. It exists nowhere else.
Unfortunately, it’s unlikely we’ll attempt a landing at Inaccessible Island. Our first target is Tristan da Cunha. If that goes well, we may visit other islands in the archipelago—perhaps Gough or Nightingale. But it’s also possible we’ll simply cruise past them. If the weather cooperates, Zodiacs may be launched. Stay tuned!
Final Thoughts
Out here, with nothing but ocean in every direction, it’s easy to feel small—but also connected to something vast and essential. Whether we land on these remote islands or simply sail by, the journey itself is a reminder of how much of the world remains wild, fragile, and worth protecting.
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