Today was a day of excursions. The morning brought us to Salisbury Plain, home to a colony of about 60,000 King penguins and many Antarctic fur seals. It was foggy when I woke up, but by the time our Zodiac group was called to board, the fog had lifted, leaving only the mountaintops shrouded in clouds. As we reached the shore, patches of blue sky opened up, illuminating the glacier and the mountains rising above the vast penguin colony.
Salisbury Plain
We were instructed to stay at least five meters from the wildlife, but the wildlife had other ideas. King penguins, naturally curious, waddled up to inspect us. Even in the water, they surrounded our Zodiac, porpoising out of the sea to get a better look.
The Antarctic fur seals were just as inquisitive—though I suspect the young males saw us as sparring partners. Some would bluff-charge us, a skill they will need when they reach about eight years old and challenge for dominance as a beach master.
One of the guides explained that the reigning beach master, father of most of the young we saw, typically dies after a successful mating season. To maintain his territory, he cannot leave the beach, meaning he does not eat. Over time, he wastes away, first losing his blubber and then his muscle mass. By the time he finally drags himself back to sea, he often does not survive. Males who fail to claim a territory live to fight another day, but for the dominant bull, victory comes at a high cost.
Possession Bay
In the age when planting a flag was all it took to claim land, James Cook landed in Possession Bay and declared it British territory. Not only did Cook make the first recorded landing, but he also surveyed and mapped the area, laying the groundwork for future explorers.
After lunch, we set out for Possession Bay, first exploring by Zodiac and then landing to visit the fur seal and King penguin colonies. The weather was cooler and foggier than in the morning, but the mist added an ethereal quality to the landscape. From the Zodiac, we spotted fur seals, elephant seals, bull kelp, giant petrels, and striking geological formations. The seals popped their heads above the water to investigate us before diving back into their usual routines.
The landing site was a tussock-covered field filled with fur seals. Their heads popped up from behind the grass like prairie dogs, and juvenile seals hopped through the tussocks to get a better look at us. Some bluff-charged, attempting to appear fierce—but no matter how aggressive they tried to be, they always looked adorable.
Among the King penguins, I spotted a few Gentoo penguins. I thought the Gentoos I had seen in the Antarctic Peninsula were slightly darker in color. One of the guides mentioned that the Gentoos in South Georgia may be genetically distinct from their Antarctic relatives.
A very large elephant seal lay sleeping in the tussocks, occasionally lifting his head to glance around before drifting back to sleep.
I also saw a fur seal with cloudy eyes, possibly due to cataracts or an eye disease. A guide speculated that the condition might be related to avian flu, as similar symptoms have been observed in gannets and, more recently, in fur seals. The seal appeared slightly disoriented, turning in circles as if struggling to navigate.
The Recap and Beyond
At the end of the day, we gathered for the usual recap, reflecting on what we had seen and learned. The briefing also gave us a preview of the next day’s itinerary. By the time it wrapped up after 7:00 PM, it was time for a quick dinner and preparation for tomorrow’s adventures.
I am especially looking forward to visiting Ernest Shackleton’s grave, a pilgrimage to honor one of the greatest explorers and expedition leaders of all time.
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