Saldanha, South Africa
Immigration in Saldanha was surprisingly quick and smooth, giving us time to return to the ship and prepare for our morning excursion to one of the region’s most fascinating sites: the West Coast Fossil Park.
A Window Into Deep Time
Five million years ago, the area now known as the West Coast Fossil Park was a subtropical paradise—lush grasslands and riverine forests stretched across the landscape. This was home to short-necked giraffes (Sivatherium), saber-toothed cats, African bears, hyenas, and many other species, now long extinct.
Then something happened. A catastrophic flood, perhaps, or a series of muddy traps in the lowlands. Paleontologists believe that herds of Sivatherium may have been swept downstream and mired in the mud. Unlike predators, these giraffe-like animals moved in groups, making them more vulnerable to mass death events. The phosphate-rich soils preserved their remains in remarkable detail.
Mining Meets Paleontology
In 1943, phosphate was discovered at Langebaanweg—now part of the park. As mining operations expanded, fossils kept emerging from the ground. During the 1960s and ’70s, scientists began cataloging these finds. Despite the mining, researchers were allowed to study the fossils, eventually identifying over 200 species from the Pliocene epoch.
When the mine closed in 1993, fossil preservation and research took center stage. In 1998, the West Coast Fossil Park was officially established, dedicated to research, education, and public engagement.
A Stunning Visitor Experience
The park’s modern visitor center opened in 2018 and blends science with art in its exhibit design. Colorful, displays made with recycled materials bring ancient landscapes to life, while graphics help visitors understand the animals that once thrived here.
The highlight is a real fossil dig site. So many remains were discovered in one area that even after hundreds were excavated, many were left in situ for public education. Our guide shared how to identify fossilized bones, differentiate between younger and older specimens, and spot subtle details that paleontologists use to reconstruct ancient ecosystems. It was like being invited behind the curtain of prehistory.
Surprise Sightings
As we made our way back from the dig site, a few of us spotted an Angulate Tortoise (Chersina angulata), native to South Africa’s coastal belt. Its delicate shell patterns and subtle yellow tint were quite beautiful.
Elsewhere, I noticed a collection of weaver bird nests, their intricate structures hanging like ornaments from branches. Although the birds had moved on, their handiwork remained—a reminder of nature’s quiet artisans.
Drummy Bears: Rhythms of Hope
Back at the visitor center, the air was alive with percussion. A line of children, each with a drum, was participating in a group rhythm session under the guidance of an energetic instructor. After watching for a few minutes, our group was invited to join.
What followed was a rhythmic “Simon Says”—we learned beats, then added body movements, and finally let out big cathartic shouts as part of the drumming circle. “Stress relief,” our drum master said. And it was.
The session was part of Drummy Bears, a local initiative that helps children focus their energy through rhythm. The leader (whose name I regret not catching) also works with people with Alzheimer’s and collaborates with researchers exploring how drumming can benefit memory and well-being. It was inspiring, joyful, and completely unexpected.
Final Thoughts
The West Coast Fossil Park offers more than just ancient bones—it’s a place where science, community, and creativity come together. It left me with a sense of awe not just for the distant past, but also for the energy and resilience of the people shaping the present.
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