I thought we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence yesterday, but the ship actually crossed it sometime last night. When I awoke, it was even colder than the day before—bracing, in fact. Fog had formed due to the meeting of the warmer northern currents and the cold southern currents. There was also a noticeable increase in birds. At times, there were flocks.
A Geology Talk That Didn’t Put Me to Sleep
South Georgia and the Scotia Rise isn’t the most exciting title for a talk, but I attended anyway because Sam is an expert, and I figured I should learn something about the geology of the area we are sailing through. He began by acknowledging how obtuse geological terms can be and how confusing the time scales are for non-geologists. That set my expectations for a snooze-fest. But no!
Sam used a variety of graphics, pictures, animations, and analogies to explain the formation of the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the surrounding region in a captivating way. Prior to this lecture, I’d heard that South Georgia is one of the best places on the planet for bird and sea life. Now I know why. Essentially, the underlying geology of the Scotia Plate causes nutrient-rich waters to shoot up a “ramp” toward South Georgia.
To me, the graphic illustrating this process looked like veins and arteries converging around Antarctica, as if it were the heart of the planet. Sam explained that the Antarctic Convergence acts as the Earth's temperature control system. Here, warmer waters from the north pick up nutrients before carrying them back northward.
King Penguins
Most people on this voyage list seeing King Penguins as a high priority. I’m no exception. Sara gave a talk to prepare us for what we would see.
Many assume Antarctica is the ultimate penguin destination. Having traveled the entire west coast of Antarctica (from Ushuaia to New Zealand), I can tell you that once you pass the rocky parts of the Antarctic Peninsula and enter ice shelf territory, penguins become scarce. Emperor Penguins are the only species that raise their young on the actual continent, and they are impossible to see from a ship. However, Emperor Penguins sometimes catch a ride on an ice floe—that’s how I saw one in the Bellingshausen Sea.
The subantarctic islands north of 60 degrees latitude have much higher penguin populations, particularly King Penguins. This map from Sara’s talk shows all the islands where King Penguins can be found.
I am especially excited about tomorrow because I’ve heard the density of King Penguins rivals that of Macquarie Island (part of Australia). I took this photo when I visited Macquarie in 2023.
King Penguins can make quite a racket. Sara explained that this is due to the anatomy of their respiratory system. Their lungs are located far down in their bodies, making their trachea unusually long. The trachea splits close to the lungs, allowing the penguins to produce two different sounds simultaneously. Does that mean they could sing a duet with themselves?
Shag Rocks
After lunch, we passed by Shag Rocks—six “islets” that rise up to 246 feet above the water. They sit on the Scotia Rise, a shelf that attracts sea life due to the upwelling of nutrients in the area. We were told that fog from the Convergence might obscure the rocks, but we were likely to see an increase in birds and possibly whales. Indeed, I saw evidence of a Blue Whale and several Fin Whales. "Evidence" meaning the flash of a back in one case and a few blows in another.
I went outside several times during our passage past Shag Rocks. It was cold—very cold, at least for me. My Silversea jacket and fleece pants kept me warm, but my fingers got chilled because I needed them free to capture images. Between the fog, the wind, and the speed of the birds, photography was tricky, but I managed to get a few shots.
A Brief Briefing
Kayaking is available at no extra cost, but participants must attend a safety briefing, declare their experience level, and sign a waiver. Most of my kayaking experience is in warmer waters, though the San Juan Islands in Washington State can be a bit chilly. I did kayak in the Ross Sea of Antarctica during my 2023 trip. Whether I sign up for kayaking on this voyage depends on the weather. Because I attended the briefing, I now have the option.
Final Thoughts
Today was a day of learning and observation. With the new knowledge of the geology, flora, and fauna of South Georgia, I am more excited than ever for our visit tomorrow. I’m also a huge Ernest Shackleton fan. The Silversea expedition team gave a lecture on Shackleton today, but I skipped it.
I’ve read Shackleton’s own accounts of his adventures, other people’s perspectives of his adventures, and attended several lectures about him when I went to Antarctica in 2023 on the National Geographic Endurance. In addition, I visited the Royal Geographical Society in London when they had an amazing exhibition of Frank Hurley’s photographs and video of the Endurance exhibition.
Needless to say, I am a Shackleton fan. Although we won’t be visiting King Haakon Bay where Shackleton, Frank Worsley, and Tom Crean landed, I think we might get a chance to visit Stromness, the location to which the trio hiked 36 hours to get help.
Recommended Reading
Books about Shackleton’s adventures and other books related to Antarctica:
South, Ernest Shackleton
Crean: The Extraordinary Life of an Irish Hero, Tim Foley
Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica, Sara Wheeler
Wild Sea: A History of the Southern Ocean, Joy McCann
The Stowaway: A Young Man’s Extraordinary Adventure to Antarctica, Laurie Gwen Shapiro
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