The temples near the town of Khajuraho are unlike any others I visited in India or Nepal. These magnificent Hindu temples were built during the Chandela dynasty (885 CE to 1000 CE) and are celebrated for their intricate carvings that cover nearly every inch of their surfaces. These carvings depict a rich tapestry of life at the time—religious rituals, dancing, music, mythological beings, child-rearing, warriors, and yes, even erotic scenes. (Photo by Bunny Laden)
Our guide explained that these sculpted scenes served multiple purposes. They were used as educational tools, teaching young people about societal roles and values. Devotees also walked around the temples, contemplating the carvings before entering. This practice was said to help clear the mind and prepare the soul for devotional activities. (Photo by Glen Gould)
Interestingly, ten percent of the carvings depict erotica. To Hindus, kama (desire, pleasure, and love) is one of the four goals of life, alongside dharma (moral duty), artha (prosperity), and moksha (liberation). The presence of erotic sculptures reflects a philosophy that embraces all aspects of life, viewing them as interconnected and sacred. What struck me most, however, was the prominent depiction of women. The carvings celebrate women in a variety of roles—mothers, artists, musicians, sexual partners, household experts, and even warriors. It’s a vivid reminder of how society once revered the multifaceted contributions of women. (Photo by Bunny Laden)
Sadly, the role of women in society began to diminish with the arrival of Muslim rule in the 13th century. The introduction of the purdah system—veiling and secluding women—restricted their mobility and curtailed their political and social power. Practices like child marriage became more common, further limiting women’s autonomy and agency.
Unlike many Hindu temples, which were defaced during Muslim rule, the temples at Khajuraho were spared. Their remote location, hidden in the dense forests of central India and far from major centers of political activity, helped them escape attention. Over time, as Muslim rule expanded, the temples fell into disuse. They were eventually overgrown by vegetation, remaining forgotten until the British rediscovered them in the 19th century. Today, the temples are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, standing as a testament to the artistic and cultural achievements of the Chandela dynasty. (Photo by Glen Gould)
As I explored the temples, I began to see the carvings as a sort of encyclopedia of life in medieval India. Each scene seemed to answer a question: What was it like to ride a horse into battle? What was it like to draw water from a well? What was it like to remove a thorn from a foot? The carvings depicted it all—moments both grand and mundane, offering a glimpse into the daily lives and values of a bygone era. (Photo by Glen Gould)
When I visited, the site was quiet, with few other visitors—a rarity in a country so filled with bustling tourist destinations. Its remote location likely keeps it off the beaten path for many travelers. Still, the temples are well worth the journey. Our group spent only a few hours there, but I left wishing we’d had a few days to explore them fully and delve deeper into the history of the Chandela dynasty. These temples are not just monuments; they are windows into a vibrant, complex world. (Photo by Glen Gould)
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